Friday 6 April 2012

Review - Old Windmill - Hanningfield, Essex

I used to be a customer of the Old Windmill many years ago, so when we had the chance to visit with some friends recently, I was looking forward to the evening. Now one of the Brunning and Price pubs, so run by people who know what they are doing and seemingly with a growing collection of old quaint pubs and good for them. The Old Windmill we are told has been a public house since at least 1799 and recently restored by B & P, it really does have a lovely character and feel to it and I am impressed by the finished product.

We had booked our table of four a few days earlier for 8.30pm and when we arrived somewhat earlier, it was nice to find that our table was already available for us. We were shown to the seating area in an alcove to the left of the bar and where a large fireplace resides. Sadly, for us, it was unlit and indeed the whole area was really too cold. I can only guess that the thin single glazed windows are part of the listed building and must stay, but they are certainly no good for keeping out the chill. So it was just a question of trying to keep warm. I noticed other customers keeping their coats on and maybe that should have been a clue for the Manager Jules, although she was on top of most other things. 

The menu is quite extensive, too much for quite a small country pub, but has the usual country pub specials. Hang on what's this I see, Salmon Laksa on the menu, chicken thighs with asian salad, tempura prawns, so someone knows their Asian food and has clearly travelled and experienced with such an Asian influence showing. It really is a challenge just to read through the many dishes on offer. There are some good starters to pick from, a selection of "lighter dishes", which include crab linguine, a ploughman's quiche or even a brat wurst hotdog! In terms of mains, we are looking at no fewer than 19 choices. This worries me slightly as I am hoping all the dishes are cooked from fresh ingredients, so a big ask with so many options. Anyway, we opt for some Olives and a bread selection to try and warm us up and then choose home cured salmon for starters with some tempura prawns with a mango and chilli starter. The salmon is excellent and served with a very fresh and nicely dressed beetroot salad and a slice of buttered toast. The prawns are okay, but the salsa is a bit scarce and lacking any chilli heat. The olives come with the starters rather than before, so we quickly cancel the bread. Our mains arrive looking beautifully presented, but my pea and broad bean risotto, although has a nice favour, is really quite dry and lacks the smooth almost soupy texture which is important for any risotto. Although I can only manage a a small amount, my plate was removed without comment. My friends Salmon Laksa is again lacking in any real heat and the broth somewhat disappointing. My wife's burger is however nice and moist and served with some big chunky home made chips. We are not overly impressed with the food and perhaps being one day before the Easter holidays, their saving the chef for what will no doubt be a busy weekend. If we were judging on presentation, it would be near top marks, but the food here just lacks something special and maybe an experienced hand tonight?

We skip dessert, but share a cheese plate. This comes with some nice fresh celery and a date chutney. At £8.95, it is slightly overpriced we feel. We are getting to 11pm and our waitress is clearly keen to get off as she appears no fewer than three times to see if we have finished our cheese board and by 11.15pm, we are pretty much the only customers left. Sure enough the last bell goes, an odd experience when you are sitting down for a relaxing meal . The service overall is good, but it's a bit hit and miss ordering food and drink at the bar with no specific area set aside for food orders and staff seem pressed to keep up with customers, some who were getting a bit anxious with the delays. I'm excited briefly to see my favourite ale, landlord by Timothy Taylor is a special on the board, but unfortunately, it's not available. Otherwise there is a nice selection of real ales and drinks to choose from.

I would return, but perhaps more for a lunch or a sandwich rather than a three course meal and only if I had a thick jumper with me!

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